How to Measure Cupboards for Sink Front Tip-Out Trays

Key takeaways

• Measure the false drawer front, the inside width between cabinet sides and the clear space behind the panel before choosing any sink front tray.
• Always check where sink bowls, taps and waste pipes sit so that the tray can tilt without catching any plumbing or fittings.
• Match your measurements to tray lengths offered by leading kits such as the RevAShelf 25 inch stainless tip-out kit, allowing a little clearance at each end.
• On framed, in-frame or bespoke kitchens, you must allow for frames and thicker doors when measuring the usable internal opening.
• Take your time, write down every dimension and sketch the layout; accurate notes make buying and installation far smoother.

Why accurate measurement matters for tip-out trays

Sink front tip-out trays are designed to squeeze practical storage into a space that is usually wasted. That means they live in a tight envelope: the thickness of your cupboard door, the depth of the tray, the underside of the sink and the path of your plumbing. Misjudge that envelope, and you often discover the problem only after you have drilled holes in your drawer front.

Accurate measuring protects you from the most common issues: trays that are too long for the cabinet, too deep for the sink bowl, or mounted in line with a bulky waste pipe. A few careful checks before you buy help you avoid returning hardware, filling unwanted screw holes, or living with a tray that never quite opens fully. It is much easier to adapt your choice of tray to your cupboard than to modify an installed sink or pipe layout.

Measurement also matters if you want your kitchen to look as good as it works. When hinges and trays are sized correctly, the false drawer front opens smoothly and closes flush with neighbouring doors. On a run of units, that alignment makes a big visual difference. For anyone with a bespoke or in-frame kitchen, it is especially important to respect the extra timber that reduces internal space, because standard tray sizes are usually based on frameless carcasses.

Tools and simple prep before you start

You do not need specialist tools for measuring up for a tip-out tray, but a bit of preparation keeps everything consistent and safe. Gather a good quality tape measure with clear millimetre markings, a pencil, a small notepad and, if you have one, a straight edge or small spirit level to help line up measurements. A torch or the light on a phone is also useful for seeing behind bowls and pipes under the sink.

Before you start measuring, remove any cleaning products, sponges or caddies from under the sink so that you can clearly see where the underside of the bowls and pipes are. If access is tight, you might find it easier to temporarily remove the shelf, if your cabinet has a loose shelf rather than a fixed one. Wiping away any dust or drips on the inside face of the false drawer front can also help you mark centre lines or hinge positions later if needed.

Step 1: Measuring the false drawer front

Begin with the visible part of the cupboard: the false drawer front or fixed panel beneath your sink. This is the piece you will convert into a tilting front using hinges and a tray behind it. Knowing its exact size helps you select a tray that uses as much of that width as possible without clashing with cabinet sides or hinges.

Measure the overall width of the false drawer front from outer edge to outer edge, to the nearest millimetre. Note this measurement as ‘front width’. Do the same for the height of the panel, from top to bottom. The height is important because some deeper trays may not fit comfortably behind a very shallow front, and because you will want the hinges mounted where they will support the front without fouling the sink or the worktop.

Look at how the false drawer front is attached. In many modern kitchens it is screwed from the back to a short fixed rail, while in some older or bespoke setups it may be pinned, glued or clipped in place. You may need to remove the front later to fit hinges, so it is worth identifying screw positions or fixings now. Taking a photo of the front and scribbling the width and height measurements next to it in your notebook can be a very helpful reference.

Step 2: Measuring internal cabinet width and usable space

Next, move inside the cupboard to measure the usable width for your tray. This is not always the same as the width of the false drawer front because carcass sides, frames or end panels eat into the available space. Open the under-sink doors fully and measure the internal width between the cabinet sides at the level where the tray will sit, usually near the top of the cabinet just behind the false drawer front.

Record this as ‘internal width’. If your kitchen is in-frame or has applied end panels, you might find that the internal width is significantly less than the external run of units suggests. For standard UK 600 mm sink units, the internal width is often around 560–570 mm on frameless cabinets, but it is always best to rely on your own measurement, not assumptions.

It is also wise to measure the distance between the inside faces of the hinges on the doors beneath, especially if they sit close to the false drawer front. Some tip-out trays and hinge brackets project slightly into the cupboard opening and can clash with door hinges that are set very wide. If your measurement between hinges is much less than the internal cabinet width, you might choose a slightly shorter tray that fits neatly between them.

Step 3: Measuring depth behind the front panel

Depth is where most measuring mistakes happen, because you are working around the sink bowls and the front edge of the worktop. You need two key measurements here: the distance from the back of the false drawer front to the nearest obstruction, and the thickness of the front itself. Taken together, these tell you how deep your tray can be.

With the cupboard doors open, place the end of the tape against the back of the false drawer front at mid-height and measure back horizontally until you touch the sink bowl, any reinforcing rail, or another fixed obstruction. Note this as ‘front-to-obstruction’. Do this in at least two places across the width in case one side has a shallower bowl or a pipe that juts out further.

Then measure the thickness of the false drawer front: from its front face to its inner face. This is important because the tray usually sits just behind the inner face of the front. Subtracting the front thickness from the front-to-obstruction measurement gives you an approximate maximum tray depth. Always allow a little clearance so that sponges and cloths in the tray do not rub hard against the bowl when you close it.

Step 4: Mapping pipes, wastes and other obstacles

Under-sink plumbing is rarely symmetrical, and a tray that fits perfectly on paper can still be awkward if its brackets land exactly where your waste trap or tap tails run. The goal here is not to produce an engineering drawing but to understand where the no-go zones are so you can choose tray lengths and hinge positions that avoid them.

Look inside the cupboard and identify the main features: the underside of each sink bowl, the waste outlets and traps, any horizontal waste pipe runs, hot and cold water pipes, and any isolation valves or flexible tap tails. Use your notepad to sketch a simple top-down view of the cabinet opening and mark where these sit relative to each cabinet side.

If, for example, the main waste pipe runs diagonally across the front of the cabinet, you may want to choose a pair of shorter tip-out trays instead of one long piece, leaving a gap where the pipe passes. Kits like the Rev-A-Shelf 11 inch polymer trays with hinges can work well in this situation because you can mount them to either side of a central obstruction.

Step 5: Checking hinge positions and compatibility

Tip-out trays rely on hinges that let the false drawer front tilt forwards. Some kits include their own hinges, while others are just the tray, expecting you to buy compatible hardware separately. Either way, you should check that there is room to mount the hinges without interfering with existing cabinet components or the sink.

From inside the cupboard, measure from each cabinet side to where you expect to position the left and right hinges. Typically these sit several centimetres in from each end of the drawer front, aligned with the manufacturer’s instructions for your chosen kit. Check that there is solid timber or carcass material behind those spots to take screws and that you are clear of any corner blocks or support rails.

Consider how far the front needs to tilt for you to access the tray. Some hinge designs allow a modest tilt, while others open more fully. If your sink bowl overhangs the back of the false drawer front significantly, you might need a hinge that pulls the bottom of the panel slightly forwards as it opens. Many stainless steel kits such as the shorter Rev-A-Shelf 14¼ inch stainless tray come with matching hinges that are designed to work with shallow sink fronts.

Step 6: Matching your measurements to common tray sizes

Once you have your key dimensions written down — front width, internal width, maximum tray depth and the positions of any pipes — you can begin matching them to available tray sizes. Most kits list their tray length in inches, often around 11, 14 or 25 inches, so having both millimetres and inches to hand can be helpful. Many tap measures show both; if not, you can convert your measurements or simply check that the tray’s stated length is comfortably less than your internal width.

As a rule of thumb, you want the tray to be slightly shorter than the usable internal width between cabinet sides or between hinges, leaving a modest gap at each end. If your internal width matches well with a longer kit such as the RevAShelf 25 inch stainless kit, this can maximise storage along a wide sink front. For more typical UK 600 mm units, you might find that one or two shorter trays give a better fit around central plumbing.

Always compare the stated tray depth with your own depth allowance. Polymer trays, like the 11 inch white set mentioned earlier, are often slightly shallower and can be kinder to tight spaces under compact sinks. Stainless options may offer more robust construction and a deeper profile, but they need a little more breathing room between the back of the front and the sink bowl. Do not forget to allow space for what you plan to store; thick-handled brushes and folded cloths need more depth than slim sponges.

Step 7: Deciding between single and double tray layouts

Your measurements also influence whether you go for one continuous tray or two separate sections. A single tray provides a clean, uninterrupted storage space and simplifies installation, but it can be tricky to fit if your plumbing sits right in the centre of the unit or you have a divider between two sink bowls. In those cases, using two smaller trays on either side can make better use of the space you actually have.

Look again at your sketch of the pipes and sink bowls. If there is a clear area across most of the width and only a small pipe in one corner, a long tray may still be practical; you simply mount it slightly forward of that pipe. If, however, there is a chunky trap in the middle, a pair of trays with a gap between them can avoid any clash. Some kits include two matching shorter trays and hinges, making it easy to mirror the layout left and right.

When planning for two trays, remember to allow for a small gap between them as well as between each tray and the cabinet sides. This helps prevent the edges catching on each other or on the carcass when the front tilts. It can also give you the opportunity to dedicate one tray to wet items, such as sponges, and the other to dry ones, like sink plugs or small brushes, keeping everything more organised.

Step 8: Working with typical UK cabinet sizes and variations

Most UK kitchens are built around standard cabinet widths such as 500 mm, 600 mm, 800 mm and 1,000 mm, but the space available behind a sink front still varies a lot. The construction of the carcass, the thickness of the doors and the style of the sink all play a part. For example, a slim stainless steel inset sink may leave plenty of room behind the false drawer front, while a heavy ceramic or Belfast style sink can extend much further forward.

On frameless cabinets, the internal width is usually the nominal cabinet size minus two carcass sides. If your sink base is 600 mm wide externally and each side panel is 18 mm thick, that suggests a theoretical internal width around 564 mm. However, any service voids, filler panels or unusual construction details can alter this, which is why direct measurement is still essential. For in-frame kitchens, the frame itself reduces the usable opening, and you may find that a tray listed at a particular length is a tight fit unless you choose a slightly shorter option.

Be particularly cautious with bespoke or hand-built kitchens. Timber thickness and door styles may not follow any standard pattern, and you might have additional braces or corner blocks that reduce space at the top of the cabinet. In those cases, smaller, modular tray kits that can be positioned flexibly often work better than long, rigid trays. If your measurements suggest that even the shortest off-the-shelf trays will struggle, you may need to prioritise a shallow, low-profile design and accept a little less capacity.

Step 9: Avoiding clashes with plumbing and tap fixings

By this stage you should have a clear idea of how long and how deep your tray can be, but one more set of checks can save you from surprises. Gently hold your tape measure or a piece of cardboard where the tray will sit and mimic the arc of the tray as the front tilts. Visualise where the back of the tray will swing as the bottom comes forward. You are looking for any point where it might hit pipes, tap tails or the underside of the sink.

Pay particular attention to flexible tap hoses and isolation valves. These often run right at the front of the cabinet, close to the sink bowl, and can snag on a moving tray. If a hose passes exactly where the back edge of the tray would travel, you might be able to reroute it slightly or choose a shallower tray. If an isolation valve protrudes, positioning two shorter trays either side of it can be an elegant workaround.

If you discover that space is tight but still workable, consider choosing a kit with a slim tray profile. Polymer trays, for example, can offer a practical compromise between capacity and clearance in compact cabinets. Also remember that you do not have to mount the hinges at the extreme top or bottom of the false drawer front; you can sometimes gain a little extra clearance by adjusting their height, provided the manufacturer’s guidelines allow it.

Step 10: Measuring for bespoke, corner or non-standard sinks

Not all sinks sit in a straight, single-width cupboard. Corner sinks, double-bowl arrangements and bespoke layouts add an extra layer of complexity to measuring. The principle remains the same: you are still working out what space exists behind each possible front panel and whether a tray can swing freely. The challenge is that obstructions are usually less uniform and the cabinet geometry more awkward.

For corner units, you might have a false drawer front on one side of the corner and a diagonal sink bowl behind. In such cases, it can be more realistic to treat the front as a partial storage opportunity, fitting a short tray only where the depth allows and accepting that some parts of the front will remain unused. Measure in multiple spots across the panel and choose a tray that fits the deepest portion rather than trying to span the entire width.

If you are working in a bespoke kitchen with extra-thick timber fronts or decorative panelling, remember to include that extra thickness in your depth calculations. A heavy solid-wood front might be twice as thick as a standard slab door, eating into the already limited space between the inner face and the sink bowl. In some cases, that may steer you towards the shallowest available tray kit or even alternative under-sink organisers instead of a standard tip-out tray.

Double-checking measurements before you buy

Before committing to a tray kit, take a moment to cross-check your notes. List your key numbers on a single page: front width and height, internal width, maximum tray depth, positions of major pipes and the hinge spacing you plan to use. Then compare them carefully with the specifications of the tray you are considering.

If, for instance, you are leaning towards an 11 inch polymer tray set, check that each tray length, plus your planned gaps at each end, sits comfortably inside the internal width. Confirm that the tray depth is several millimetres less than your calculated maximum, and that the hinge mounting positions will land on solid material. For longer stainless kits like the 25 inch RevAShelf option, pay particular attention to the central area under the sink to be sure the tray will not conflict with the main waste plumbing.

This double-checking process might feel repetitive, but it is far quicker than having to return a kit that does not fit. It also makes the installation stage smoother because you already know where everything will sit. If you later follow a fitting guide, such as the one on installing a sink front tip-out tray mentioned earlier, you will be able to focus on drilling and fixing rather than pausing to re-measure or adjust your plan.

Putting it all together: from numbers to a practical layout

Once your measurements make sense as a whole, it can help to sketch a simple side view of the cabinet, showing the false drawer front, the tray and the sink bowl. Mark the hinge positions and draw the approximate arc of the tray as it opens. This does not need to be perfect, but it reinforces whether your chosen tray depth and hinge type are realistic for the space you have.

If the sketch suggests that the tray might come too close to the bowl or a pipe, consider adjusting your plan now. Switching from one long tray to two shorter ones, choosing a shallower design, or shifting the hinges a little can all solve issues before they become real. Because tip-out trays are modular and relatively simple, you usually have more than one way to achieve practical storage under your sink front; your measurements guide which option is the most sensible.

With a clear plan, buying and fitting becomes a straightforward project rather than guesswork. You can focus on details like whether you prefer stainless steel for durability, as in many Rev-A-Shelf kits, or polymer trays that are quiet and easy to wipe clean. The measuring effort you put in now ensures that whichever style you choose will integrate neatly into your own kitchen, rather than forcing your kitchen to suit the hardware.

Tip: Always write your measurements in one consistent unit, ideally millimetres, and avoid rounding aggressively. A few extra seconds with the tape measure can make the difference between a tray that clears the sink comfortably and one that catches every time it tilts.